I was expecting it to be a classical or renaissance affair. But bored of frescos, busts and religious artefacts, I was driven to food.

Stuffed myself silly on top nosh and plonk, mostly in the Trastevere area, west of the Tiber. I would definitely recommend staying in this area with trattorias and bars staying open way past midnight and a really nice vibe in the streets. (We stayed at the chic B&B Villa Magnolia Relais (www.villamagnoliarelais.it) in a quiet bit of Gianicolo Hill, above Trastevere).

From Friday to Tuesday, I ate four courses at lunch and sameagain at dinner, sampling some traditional recipes and more contemporary dishes. Pasta Bucatini all'Amatriciana and Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe are ubiquitous and nearly always excellent. Fried & battered courgette flowers and salt cod also brilliant as was fried artichokes and available just about everywhere.  Rabbit roasted with oil, garlic and rosemary is also the nuts.  And we ate staples like bresola, scalloppine al limone, osso bucco.

Highlights of the new stuff, at http://www.anticoarco.it/English/index.htm, were an odd rabbit “scotch egg”, and a mojito sorbet. (If you’re in the Alps and stodged out by fondue and steak, I reckon the mojito sorbet would be a much better palette cleanser than coupe colonel.)

Not everything was ideal at Antico Arco – amberjack fillet was dry and overcooked like a door stop, and sweet & sour sucking pig was simply an aberration.

Another contemporary gaff... www.grappolodorozampano.it...served up a lovely carpaccio of cod, tuna, fennel and orange. If you’re in the Campo di Fiori area, it’s safe bet for outside dining, opposite a rather oddball exhibition of Da Vinci’s machines. Check out this armoured tank: http://www.mostradileonardo.com/invenzioni.php?q=4&w=7&lang=EN. I have car envy.

My favourites eateries served fairly traditional food, even if they are not alway in traditional settings. I’d recommend:

• Da Augusto (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Rome-Italy/AUGUSTO-Trastevere/45377591238), a small and frantic trattoria in Trastevere where two people can have three courses and a bottle of table wine for under €40.00;
• Marco G (http://www.marcog.it/) a new bar and restaurant in Via Garibaldi, Trastervere – it’s all exposed brick and fine wines, but the food is very traditional and cheap.
• Da Toscano (http://www.ristorantedaltoscano.it/) not far from the Vatican. Apparently its a venerable Tuscan restaurant famed for its Fiorentina steak. I had the best veal chop i’ve ever eaten anywhere, accompanied by a very fine Brunello di montalcino from Banfi.
• Ristorante La Botticella (http://www.ristorantelabotticella.com/) in a quiet street in Trastevere, around the corner from mobbed Da Lucia. Decent food, but glorious setting.
• Enoteca Ferrara (http://www.enotecaferrara.it/), near the Ponte Sisto. Pretty good food, but the wine list is extraordinary. Lever arch file and file of wines from the cellar.

I’m not sure if these are best gaffs in Rome, but i wouldn’t hesitate in recommending them. Somewhere I would not is Gusto (http://www.gusto.it/) near the mausoleum of Augustus, off Via Condotti. It might have nice, industrial warehouse decor, but the food sucks. And I’ve been to some pretty rank eateries in my time.